Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Things I Miss About America

I haven't struggled too much with homesickness while living abroad, but there are a few things I miss about living in the US. 

I've had "American style" pancakes at several places in London but they are missing some pretty key elements: size, heaping amounts of butter, and endless fake syrup. I do like the British way of putting jam and whipped cream on pancakes but nothing hits the spot quite like real American pancakes. 

One thing I miss that I can't find here is American sprinkles. The UK has 'hundreds and thousands' but they are a crunchy version of sprinkles. I miss soft sprinkles that are super colorful and get stuck in the grooves of your teeth. 

Also, Mexican food in America is wonderful. Cheese smothered enchiladas, fried tacos, and large portions of beans and rice. Mmmm, delicious. 

Americans love giant glasses of ice-cold water. We love ice in almost all our drinks, in fact. What I wouldn't give for a Route 44 Cherry Coke from Sonic right now. Crushed ice is the best of the best, in my opinion. 

After you've consumed 44 ounces of soda, you are going to be in desperate need for a "pit stop." I definitely miss how many places offer free toilets to the public. Gas (petrol) stations, grocery stores, rest stops along the highway...the list goes on and on. 

I miss grape Tootsie Roll Pops, still and sparkling juices, fruit snacks, and everything else grape. Grape flavored foods aren't really a thing in London. Purple Skittles and Starburst are black currant flavored and there is also black currant juice but it just isn't a good substitute for grape. 

One thing I don't miss about my life before London is driving. I hate driving, keeping up with the maintenance, filling up with fuel (petrol), washing the windshield (windscreen), and did I mention the actual driving? Even with all its faults, I love public transportation. 

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Somerset House

Back in February I went on two tours of Somerset House with my brother-in-law. One was about the ancient palace on the grounds and the other focused on the current building. 

Construction of the original Somerset Palace was commissioned in 1549 by Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset and Lord Protector of King Edward VI. It was a 2 story house with elaborate gardens that stretched to the river bank. Before it was finished, the Duke of Somerset was overthrown and executed at Tower Hill. 

Queen Elizabeth I (then Princess Elizabeth) lived at Somerset House as construction slowly continued during the reign of Queen Mary I, her half sister. When building the current Somerset House, they saved money by using rough and unpolished materials for the parts that would remain unseen, shown below.

The Stuarts started a tradition where they gave Somerset Palace to the queen, starting with James I's wife, Anne of Denmark. She renamed it Denmark House and hired Inigo Jones for renovations and additions. One addition was a Roman Catholic chapel for Henrietta Maria of France, wife of Charles I. 

The gravestones from the Roman Catholic church are the only remains of the original Somerset Palace and are found in "the Deadhouse," an area below the current Somerset House. 

Somerset Palace was used as headquarters for the army during the English Civil War and fell into extreme disrepair in the decades that followed. It was mainly used for storage and was finally demolished in 1775. The current Somerset House was built as a national building that contained public offices including: salt, tax, navy, lottery, and hawkers and pedlar offices.

It took decades to complete the current building due to financial issues under King George III (featured in Roman dress in the statue pictured below) and successive monarchs. Finishing decorations were still being completed as late as 1819. 
 Today, Somerset House is a major arts and culture center with loads of exhibits, concerts, and an ice-skating rink in the winter. I enjoyed both free tours we attended at Somerset House. It was fascinating to learn more about this amazing building in central London. 

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Two Temple Place

Two Temple Place is a historic mansion home in Embankment, close to the river Thames. It was purchased and renovated in the late 19th century by William Waldorf Astor, the wealthy American businessman.

William Waldorf Astor was born into a wealthy family, spent some time practicing law and politics before moving to England with his family. His move was preceded by a family feud over who would be the "official Mrs Astor" in social settings. He even went so far as faking his own death to disappear from public view during this apparently tumultuous time (this ended up backfiring as the press found out about it and mocked Astor). 

After moving to England he acquired two newspapers, purchased and renovated several historic buildings (including Hever Castle, Anne Boleyn's childhood home), and became benefactor to many charities. He was granted a title of nobility because of his philanthropy. He was given the title of Baron and was later elevated to the rank of Viscount. 

Astor must have been an avid reader as his renovations included several artistic renderings of literary characters. The staircase has seven mahogany carvings which represent characters from The Three Musketeers, Astor's favorite novel. 

The panels on the door to the Great Hall depict nine heroines of the Arthurian legend including The Lady of the Isle of Avelyon; Elaine, the lily maid of Astolat; The Lady of the Lake; Guinevere; and several more. 

The frieze in the main hall includes characters from The Last of the Mohicans, The Scarlet Letter, and Rip Van Winkle
Two Temple Place is only open to the public a few weeks a year and features a different exhibition annually. Their next opening is in January 2017. I am glad I was able to tour this incredible historic home for their 2016 open dates (I was way more interested in the house than the temporary exhibit). 

Friday, June 10, 2016

18 Stafford Terrace

A while back I toured 18 Stafford Terrace with my friend Kate. The home was purchased by Edward Linley Sambourne in 1875. He worked as a cartoonist for Punch, a humor and satire magazine. 

The home's internal decor has been preserved by Sambourne's children and grandchildren and gives visitors a spectacular view of Victorian life. Edward Sambourne did not make a lot of money as a cartoonist but still wanted his home filled with the popular furnishings of the day. To accomplish this he purchased chipped china and displayed them in a way to hide the imperfections. 

The wallpaper throughout several rooms was made from leather and purchased from Japan. Another cost saving technique Sambourne applied was that he did not put the expensive new wallpaper behind framed art, mirrors, or anything else hanging on the wall. 

Our guide told us that Victorians liked rooms with dim lighting and kept the rooms dim with curtains and dark stained glass. It was also en vogue to have lots of little trinkets and furniture filling the room. Today we see this as unnecessary clutter and gauche. 

Below is a self portrait of Edward Linley Sambourne in the style of his drawings. You can also see a closer view of some of the Japanese wallpaper. When his children were grown, Sambourne turned the attic nursery into his office where he would work at his easel. 

Sambourne was not a classically trained artist and would take photographs of himself or paid models in different poses so he could produce drawings quickly and more accurately than freehand. The museum has thousands of these [sometimes rather ridiculous] photographs filed away with some on display in the bathroom. In fact, Sambourne has been declared by some "The King of Selfies." 

18 Stafford Terrace is one of the best preserved Victorian homes I've ever seen. The guided tour was excellent and I would recommend to anyone interested in historic homes.