Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Things I Miss About America

I haven't struggled too much with homesickness while living abroad, but there are a few things I miss about living in the US. 

I've had "American style" pancakes at several places in London but they are missing some pretty key elements: size, heaping amounts of butter, and endless fake syrup. I do like the British way of putting jam and whipped cream on pancakes but nothing hits the spot quite like real American pancakes. 

One thing I miss that I can't find here is American sprinkles. The UK has 'hundreds and thousands' but they are a crunchy version of sprinkles. I miss soft sprinkles that are super colorful and get stuck in the grooves of your teeth. 

Also, Mexican food in America is wonderful. Cheese smothered enchiladas, fried tacos, and large portions of beans and rice. Mmmm, delicious. 

Americans love giant glasses of ice-cold water. We love ice in almost all our drinks, in fact. What I wouldn't give for a Route 44 Cherry Coke from Sonic right now. Crushed ice is the best of the best, in my opinion. 

After you've consumed 44 ounces of soda, you are going to be in desperate need for a "pit stop." I definitely miss how many places offer free toilets to the public. Gas (petrol) stations, grocery stores, rest stops along the highway...the list goes on and on. 

I miss grape Tootsie Roll Pops, still and sparkling juices, fruit snacks, and everything else grape. Grape flavored foods aren't really a thing in London. Purple Skittles and Starburst are black currant flavored and there is also black currant juice but it just isn't a good substitute for grape. 

One thing I don't miss about my life before London is driving. I hate driving, keeping up with the maintenance, filling up with fuel (petrol), washing the windshield (windscreen), and did I mention the actual driving? Even with all its faults, I love public transportation. 

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Somerset House

Back in February I went on two tours of Somerset House with my brother-in-law. One was about the ancient palace on the grounds and the other focused on the current building. 

Construction of the original Somerset Palace was commissioned in 1549 by Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset and Lord Protector of King Edward VI. It was a 2 story house with elaborate gardens that stretched to the river bank. Before it was finished, the Duke of Somerset was overthrown and executed at Tower Hill. 

Queen Elizabeth I (then Princess Elizabeth) lived at Somerset House as construction slowly continued during the reign of Queen Mary I, her half sister. When building the current Somerset House, they saved money by using rough and unpolished materials for the parts that would remain unseen, shown below.

The Stuarts started a tradition where they gave Somerset Palace to the queen, starting with James I's wife, Anne of Denmark. She renamed it Denmark House and hired Inigo Jones for renovations and additions. One addition was a Roman Catholic chapel for Henrietta Maria of France, wife of Charles I. 

The gravestones from the Roman Catholic church are the only remains of the original Somerset Palace and are found in "the Deadhouse," an area below the current Somerset House. 

Somerset Palace was used as headquarters for the army during the English Civil War and fell into extreme disrepair in the decades that followed. It was mainly used for storage and was finally demolished in 1775. The current Somerset House was built as a national building that contained public offices including: salt, tax, navy, lottery, and hawkers and pedlar offices.

It took decades to complete the current building due to financial issues under King George III (featured in Roman dress in the statue pictured below) and successive monarchs. Finishing decorations were still being completed as late as 1819. 
 Today, Somerset House is a major arts and culture center with loads of exhibits, concerts, and an ice-skating rink in the winter. I enjoyed both free tours we attended at Somerset House. It was fascinating to learn more about this amazing building in central London. 

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Two Temple Place

Two Temple Place is a historic mansion home in Embankment, close to the river Thames. It was purchased and renovated in the late 19th century by William Waldorf Astor, the wealthy American businessman.

William Waldorf Astor was born into a wealthy family, spent some time practicing law and politics before moving to England with his family. His move was preceded by a family feud over who would be the "official Mrs Astor" in social settings. He even went so far as faking his own death to disappear from public view during this apparently tumultuous time (this ended up backfiring as the press found out about it and mocked Astor). 

After moving to England he acquired two newspapers, purchased and renovated several historic buildings (including Hever Castle, Anne Boleyn's childhood home), and became benefactor to many charities. He was granted a title of nobility because of his philanthropy. He was given the title of Baron and was later elevated to the rank of Viscount. 

Astor must have been an avid reader as his renovations included several artistic renderings of literary characters. The staircase has seven mahogany carvings which represent characters from The Three Musketeers, Astor's favorite novel. 

The panels on the door to the Great Hall depict nine heroines of the Arthurian legend including The Lady of the Isle of Avelyon; Elaine, the lily maid of Astolat; The Lady of the Lake; Guinevere; and several more. 

The frieze in the main hall includes characters from The Last of the Mohicans, The Scarlet Letter, and Rip Van Winkle
Two Temple Place is only open to the public a few weeks a year and features a different exhibition annually. Their next opening is in January 2017. I am glad I was able to tour this incredible historic home for their 2016 open dates (I was way more interested in the house than the temporary exhibit). 

Friday, June 10, 2016

18 Stafford Terrace

A while back I toured 18 Stafford Terrace with my friend Kate. The home was purchased by Edward Linley Sambourne in 1875. He worked as a cartoonist for Punch, a humor and satire magazine. 

The home's internal decor has been preserved by Sambourne's children and grandchildren and gives visitors a spectacular view of Victorian life. Edward Sambourne did not make a lot of money as a cartoonist but still wanted his home filled with the popular furnishings of the day. To accomplish this he purchased chipped china and displayed them in a way to hide the imperfections. 

The wallpaper throughout several rooms was made from leather and purchased from Japan. Another cost saving technique Sambourne applied was that he did not put the expensive new wallpaper behind framed art, mirrors, or anything else hanging on the wall. 

Our guide told us that Victorians liked rooms with dim lighting and kept the rooms dim with curtains and dark stained glass. It was also en vogue to have lots of little trinkets and furniture filling the room. Today we see this as unnecessary clutter and gauche. 

Below is a self portrait of Edward Linley Sambourne in the style of his drawings. You can also see a closer view of some of the Japanese wallpaper. When his children were grown, Sambourne turned the attic nursery into his office where he would work at his easel. 

Sambourne was not a classically trained artist and would take photographs of himself or paid models in different poses so he could produce drawings quickly and more accurately than freehand. The museum has thousands of these [sometimes rather ridiculous] photographs filed away with some on display in the bathroom. In fact, Sambourne has been declared by some "The King of Selfies." 

18 Stafford Terrace is one of the best preserved Victorian homes I've ever seen. The guided tour was excellent and I would recommend to anyone interested in historic homes. 

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

So Much Food, Part 2

Workshop is known around London for their coffee but they should be known for their breakfast. I went a few weeks ago with my friend, Heather. She tried the eggs benedict and I had the french toast. Both were delicious!

Several markets have stands selling the Brazilian dessert called brigadeiros. They are like little balls of brownie batter covered in more chocolate. My favorite is the Oreo (shown below with black and white sprinkles). 

One Friday evening Warren and I went out with friends for oyster happy hour at Wright Brothers Mermaid Oyster Bar. I typically don't go out for oysters but for 1 pound each they were a great deal. And really good, too!
Mary, Kate, and me with our oysters
I went to Nordic Bakery near Golden Square a while back with my friends Lisa and Mark. I've been here before but this time I got a pastry filled with potato, egg, and butter. I was surprised to find that it was delicious.

Kate told me about a Polish place called Ogniska in South Kensington. We went there for lunch one day and tried the salmon blinis (a savory pancake with toppings) and pierogi (dumplings filled with potato and cheese). 

An American style pizza place, NY Fold, opened last summer. I prefer the pizza at Franco Manco and Pizza Pilgrims over NY Fold but it was still pretty good. But they did have fountain soda with free refills which is very unusual in London.

Last fall Blu Top Ice Cream and Vicky's Donuts teamed up for doughnut sundaes at The Crown and Anchor in Brixton. I tried the Castro which had bananascotch ice cream covered in salted chocolate crackle shell inside a chocolate glazed doughnut.

The Providores in Marylebone has a delicious brunch menu. I tried the stuffed french toast with bacon and was not disappointed. 

I've heard great things about Butchies friend chicken and was pleased to see their stand at the Feast of Saint George in Trafalgar Square last month. Warren and I split a chicken burger and it was amazing! I'd definitely get it again.

Meringue Girls were also at the Feast of Saint George so I tried both a watermelon meringue and this meringue sundae shown below. What could be better than meringue, you ask? Meringue topped with frosting, crushed nuts, and berry compote, of course!

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

So Much Food, Part 1

I realized that I haven't done a compilation on food since last August! It was a bit too long with everything I've tried so I'm breaking it into two posts. 

My friend Kate loves Ottolenghi so one night we met up with Pamela and Mary for dinner. We all shared dishes so we could try lots of things. I only took photos of four of them, but we tried seared tuna, aubergine croquettes, beet salad, and aubergine salad. Everything was delicious, especially the beet salad!

Most days Piccadilly Market is nothing special. There are booths selling antiques and people who will make you a belt while you wait. But on Mondays the market changes into a bustling street food market. There was a huge queue at the Peruvian booth so I figured it must be worth trying. I got the chicken with rice and it did not disappoint.

While at Piccadilly Market I was introduced to Cakehole, a bakery stand with amazing cheesecake. Yes, this will definitely happen again.

I know I've mentioned the salt beef sandwich at Brass Rail in the Selfridges Food Hall before, but I went another time with my friend Heather to try the reuben. It was even better than the salt beef. I always love the pickle/gherkin at Brass Rail. 

Bloomsbury Farmers Market is my new favorite weekday food market. Even in the middle of winter, there were tons of booths and people there for lunch. I got a mix of three different kinds of pasta from a place with an insanely long queue. I had pasta with red sauce and olives, pesto and mushrooms, and gnocchi with salmon. The pesto was by far the winner in my opinion. 

Molly Bakes in Dalston has gotten a lot of publicity for their freakshakes. It is a milkshake with brownies, cookies, marshmallows, sauces, and whipped cream. Warren tried the peanut butter, Lisa tried the salted caramel and I tried the raspberry. They were all delicious and I loved that the raspberry had pop rocks!

Even though it looks delicious, the food at STAKEhaus was a bit disappointing. I've had better steak and chips in other markets (specifically at Maltby Street Market). Luckily I'd used a half price voucher I'd received from Kerb so it wasn't a huge investment. 

My friend Pamela and her mom wanted to try Top Dog, the restaurant started by Marissa Hermer from the reality show Ladies of London. The hot dogs were really great! I tried a beef hot dog with apple-slaw (bottom left in the photo below). Marissa actually came in while we were there and was nice enough to take photos with us!

My new obsession is the 'biskie' from Cutter and Squidge. I love the salted caramel one that is a cookie sandwich filled with buttercream frosting, marshmallow, and caramel sauce. 

I read about Fischer's kaiserschmarrn in Time Out magazine so Lisa and I went there for brunch one Saturday morning. Kaisershmarrn is a shredded pancake named after the Austrian emporer Franz Joseph I who was particularly fond of it. Ours came with stewed fruit and a sweet soured cream. 

My friend Kate loves salt beef sandwiches and says the best one in London is from Northfield Farm at Borough Market. Warren and I gave it a go and I have to agree with Kate...definitely the best! The mustard is a bit spicy for my taste but overall it was delicious. 

My sister told me about this place she likes in Belgium called Aux Merveilleux de Fred. There is one in South Kensington that I now frequent more often than I'd like to admit. My favorite thing there is the brioche with chocolate but they also have these meringues topped with frosting and covered in chocolate shavings.

La Gelatiera in Covent Garden has these adorable baby cones! And what's even better is that the gelato is delicious. I usually prefer ice cream over gelato but la Gelatiera might make me change my stance on that. 

Monday, April 25, 2016

Queen's English as a Second Language Part 12

Toilet/WC/Ladies--restroom/bathroom, as in "Where is the ladies?" or "I need to use the toilet." 

Flyover--overpass, as in "The traffic on the flyover is always packed."

Lush--great/amazing, as in "I had the most lush milkshake last week."

Kind regards--way to end an email or letter. In the US I typically signed my emails "Thanks, Rachael" but here I use "Kind Regards," "Best," or "Best Regards"

Parcel--package, as in "When is the parcel expected to arrive?"

Single File Traffic--one land road, as in "Harrow Road is single file traffic due to construction."

Fab--short for fabulous, as in "I saw the most fab skirt on Oxford Street today" or "You must try the ice cream at Udderlicious. It's fab!"

Treacle (specifically black treacle)--molasses, as in "I don't care for the taste of treacle."

Ring--call, as in "I'll ring you later."

Bloody--mild swear word to add emphasis, as in "fan-bloody-tastic," "bloody good idea," or "I can't see a bloody thing!"

Tick--check, as in "I ticked so many boxes today."

Overtaking--passing, as in "Be careful when overtaking other motorists on the motorway."

Post/Postbox--mail/mailboxes, as in "Has the post come yet?" or "I need to run this to the postbox."

Landslip--landslide, as in "The trains are backed up due to the land slip."

Scoff--scarf or stuff your face, as in "I scoffed an entire package of Jaffa cakes last night."

Where to start on this one...I'll just say that if this were in the US it would be called something like, "I must color now"

Posh--sophisticated, as in "I don't know any posh words" or "Wow, this new routemaster is so posh."
Air con/air co--a/c, as in "I love the Circle line mostly for the air con."

Oh crumbs--exclamation of surprise or worry, as in "Oh crumbs! I spilled on my trousers."

Whilst--while, as in "I finished reading my book whilst waiting for you."

Chips--fries, as in "I'll have a burger with a side of chips."

Twat--a vulgar term for idiot, as in "[insert disliked politician's name] is a real twat."

Splendid--wonderful, as in "The show last night was splendid!"

Fit--hot, as in "His mate is well fit."

Bap--roll (typically filled like a sandwich), as in "I love a bacon bap."

Roleplay--dress up, as in "I've heard roleplay games are essential to children's development."
I apologize this photo is blurry, it is off an escalator and I tried so many times to get a clearer picture with no success

Chambermaid--housekeeper, as in "You have a chambermaid? How posh!"

Tatties--potatoes (I think this is from Scotland), as in "My mum makes the best tatties."

Pay point--register, as in "There is a huge queue at the pay point."

Surgery--one-on-one meeting with politician and constituents (not to be confused with surgical theatre at a hospital)


Toastie--grilled cheese/panini, as in "I want a cheese toastie at Borough Market for lunch."